Decorated dog

Dog in Beads - magiclanternshowen.blogspot.com

Le Cimetière des Chiens (dog cemetery) might not be in the most central Parisian location, but it is worth travelling to. It’s to be found on the outskirts of Paris at Asnières-sur-Seine and really I can give no better directions than those at Europe for Visitors. Do take these with you, as it is tricky to find.

We managed to see the cemetery on our second visit. The first time we exited the Metro at Mairie de Clichy we were greeted by a torrential downpour. We did start on the 15 minute walk to the cemetery from there but were forced back through fear of drowning.

Cimitiere des chiens

Cimitière des chiens - Toucan Radio on Flickr

We went back, however, as I thought this, supposedly the oldest animal cemetery in the world, was well worth writing up in Quirky Travel (I wonder why the Egyptian burials of cats aren’t counted in the oldest category.)

The fact is, this isn’t just a dog cemetery. Officially opened in 1899 after the introduction of a law whereby the public were no longer allowed to chuck their dead animals out the window or into the nearest Seine, it’s home to horse, lions, fish, cats and birds and a monkey called Kiki.

Gateway to cimitiere des chiens

Cemetery entrance by Eugène Petit - paperblog.fr

A beautiful gateway forms the entrance to this charming necropolis and was designed by architect Eugène Petit in the then fashionable Art Nouveau style, and the long cemetery runs alongside the Seine in a neat and picturesque fashion.

Famous residents aren’t just the preserve of Père-Lachaise – oh no. The Cimetière des Chiens boasts a monument to the heroic Saint Bernard Barry who died in 1814, having saved 40 souls while working with the Great St Bernard Hospice in Switzerland. To this day the hospice keeps a dog called Barry in memory of the wonderdog.

The Hollywood star of the 1920s and 30s, Rin Tin Tin, is also buried at Asnières-sur-Seine, his body having been transferred from Hollywood after his death in the arms of Jean Harlow (or so the story goes).

Something we loved about the cemetery was the presence of living animals. As in many Parisian cemeteries, cats have made their home here – and there’s even a maison des chats to shelter them from the aforementioned torrential rain in the region ;o) The provision of food and cleaning of the house is carried out on a daily basis by kind-hearted volunteers.

This is an outing much recommended for a slightly different, quiet wander – and the gravestones to these much-loved pets are absolutely fascinating and just as much a piece of history as those of their owners.

Useful links

A short film about the cemetery

Lovely article with old postcard pictures of the cemetery

Address of Cimitière des chiens

4 Pont de Clichy
Asnières-sur-Seine, Île-de-France, France

Metro: Mairie de Clichy

Tags: , , , , , ,

J on March 4th, 2012
Louxor exterior 1930, Paris

The exterior of the Louxor in 1930 - ivanartdeco.wordpress.com

Egypt was all the rage when the Louxor – Palais de Cinema, flagship of the Pathe cinema chain was opened in October 1921 in the Barbès district of Paris. The design of it, the creation of architect Henry Zipcy, was inspired by the film Cleopatra, a 1917 blockbuster starring the lucious Theda Bara. Unfortunately this film is, for the moment at least, lost – the last known remaining copies of it destroyed by fire.

Theda Bara as Cleopatra, 1917

Theda Bara as Cleopatra

The interior of the cinema included Egyptian-style seating, a blue ceiling to depict the sky, Egyptian-inspired murals, hieroglyphs and papyrus columns. There was an orchestra pit and pipe organ. The facade, thankfully protected, can still be seen on this building which sits opposite the bargain clothes chain Tati at the Barbès-Rochechouart metro stop in a rough and ready part of town. Blue, gold and black columns and scarabs decorate the outside but since the 1980s much of it was covered in posters advertising the latest music gigs.

Interior of the Louxor 1954, Paris

Interior in 1954 - cinematreasures.org

The decline of the Louxor began in the mid-1950s when cinema audience numbers were in decline worldwide, largely due to the onslaught of television. By the 1970s, mainly Indian and Arab films were being shown to a growing immigrant population. The building ceased to function as a cinema when it was sold to the Tati chain in 1983. Thankfully an attempt by this company to pull it down and erect a clothing store failed, and it was briefly a nightclub in the late 1980s. In 1990 the Louxor closed and remained closed until purchased by the City of Paris in 2003.

Louxor salle Youssef Chahine

How the salle Youssef Chahine will look in 2013 - paris.fr

The future is looking great for the Louxor and its restoration is part of the ongoing work to regenerate this area of Paris. Work has started on the renovation, and there are plans to re-open it in 2013 (I’ll be updating this post when that happens). There will be three cinemas within and much of the original Egyptian decoration will have been restored. There will also be an exhibition gallery and catering facilities.

Here’s to the appreciation of a grand old picturehouse!

Links

Friends of Louxor cinema

Paris-Louxor

10th arrondissement council page on the Louxor

Related posts

The Grand Rex is another cinematic gem in Paris – here’s QT’s Le Grand Rex Cinema post.

And you can take a tour behind the scenes. Here’s the story of my Etoiles de Grand Rex backstage trip.

Tags: , ,

J on February 26th, 2012
Yellow submarine

Dan Taylor's yellow submarine

After seeing this picture on one of my favourite sites, News of the Unreal, I thought I’d do a bit of research on this yellow submarine.

The one-man submarine in the picture is named Viperfish and was launched and built by American inventor and submarine enthusiast Dan Scott Taylor in 1969 for the hunt for Nessie, the Loch Ness monster, in Scotland. It has been said that it inspired the Beatle’s song of the same name.

I found this on h2g2.com:

Dan had to take an umbrella with him as the hatch leaked and on one voyage he couldn’t close the hatch properly. Rather than abandon the dive, he went down until the pressure helped shut the hatch and then pumped the water out. He laughed while others worried for him waiting on the bank of the Loch. A brave man indeed!

Unfortunately he didn’t encounter Nessie, although the submarine was disturbed in the water by something large and quick-moving.

Dan was working on a larger, more stable submarine, Nessa, that would travel at 20 knots per hour (23 miles per hour), and included a biopsy part for taking a sample from the animal, but unfortunately he died before completion in 2005. It was 75% complete and has happily since been passed on to Atlantica Expeditions and renamed the Dan Scott Taylor II.

Here’s some more information on his missions:

http://www.lorencoleman.com/taylor_obituary.html

And here’s an interview with Dan about his intention to get a tissue sample from Nessie:

http://www.trueauthority.com/cryptozoology/daninterview.htm

There are two 1969 photographs taken around the time of the Viperfish’s launch here

The submarine can be seen as part of the Loch Ness Centre and Exhibition in Drumnadrochit – it’s right beside the enormous loch.

Tags: , , , ,

J on February 15th, 2012
Yoda the Hungarian

Yoda the Hungarian

According to our tour guide (on the left, below) on a walk in Budapest, the very special syntax used by Yoda from Star Wars is in fact Hungarian.

Free walking tours, Budapest
As a quick refresher, these are examples of Yoda-speak (from http://itre.cis.upenn.edu/~myl/languagelog/archives/002173.html):

Always two there are, no more.

Truly wonderful, the mind of a child is.

Much to learn, you still have.

When nine hundred years old you reach, look as good you will not.

As you can see, it’s just the order of the words that is changed from the English, and in fact some of the sentences he speaks are actually straight English. But where did the idea come from?

The story goes that George Lucas was looking for some unusual speech pattern for Yoda and had a Hungarian technician translate his English lines into Hungarian and back again, and this resulted in the particular Hungarian grammatical order. In Hungarian, this is subject-object-verb, whereas English is subject-verb-object (isn’t linguistics fascinating?).

I’ve seen Yoda-speak referred to as both Yodaese and Yodish and it has been analysed to death by amateur linguists. See a couple of illuminating sites below (none of which mention the Hungarian connection):

Yoda Jeff.com

Yoda-Speak Convertor

If anyone has any more detail on this story, I’d love to hear it! Just add to the comments below.

Tags: , , ,

J on February 11th, 2012

HodgePic by kjpickwick

Outside a small house in Gough Square, just north of Fleet Street in London is a bronze statue of a proud and slightly fierce moggie. Why might this be?

The house in question was inhabited by Samuel Johnson, compiler of the very first English dictionary, and it was here that he compiled it (it was published in 1755). The eighteenth century dwelling is now a lovely little museum north of Fleet Street, and, as it’s not on a main thoroughfare, have an A-Z or Google Maps handy with you when visiting.

Since Johnson lived there, the townhouse has been a hotel, printer’s workshop and a social club for the Auxiliary Fire Service during the Second World War yet it still has ‘original features’ as they say on the property programmes, including original floorboards.

So who’s the cat?

Hodge is the name of this magnificent feline. He is shown seated on a copy of the famous dictionary. (And knowing how much my cats like to sit on top of anything made of paper, probably true to life.) Some oyster shells are on the book in front of him, as it was said by his friend Boswell that Johnson was wont to feed the cat with these shellfish (they weren’t the luxury food they are these days.)

Here’s a passsage written by Boswell about the characterful cat (nicked from Wikipedia):

Nor would it be just, under this head, to omit the fondness which he showed for animals which he had taken under his protection. I never shall forget the indulgence with which he treated Hodge, his cat: for whom he himself used to go out and buy oysters, lest the servants having that trouble should take a dislike to the poor creature. I am, unluckily, one of those who have an antipathy to a cat, so that I am uneasy when in the room with one; and I own, I frequently suffered a good deal from the presence of this same Hodge. I recollect him one day scrambling up Dr. Johnson’s breast, apparently with much satisfaction, while my friend smiling and half-whistling, rubbed down his back, and pulled him by the tail; and when I observed he was a fine cat, saying, ‘Why yes, Sir, but I have had cats whom I liked better than this;’ and then as if perceiving Hodge to be out of countenance, adding, ‘but he is a very fine cat, a very fine cat indeed.’

This reminds me of the ludicrous account which he gave Mr. Langton, of the despicable state of a young Gentleman of good family. ‘Sir, when I heard of him last, he was running about town shooting cats.’ And then in a sort of kindly reverie, he bethought himself of his own favourite cat, and said, ‘But Hodge shan’t be shot; no, no, Hodge shall not be shot.’

The statue was created by sculptor Jon Bickley and it was unveiled by the Mayor of London in 1997. The inscription reads ‘a very fine cat indeed’. And isn’t he just that?

Visiting Dr Johnson’s House

Website: www.drjohnsonshouse.org/history.htm

Address: 17 Gough Square,  London , EC4A 3DE

Tags: , , ,

J on February 6th, 2012
Neon Boneyard

Neon Boneyard from http://www.markwu.info

On our road trip in the US last summer, one of must-sees on the itinerary was the Neon Boneyard in Las Vegas. Not being much of a gambler or glitzy show watcher, I had to find alternatives for our visit to Sin City and this seemed a great way to learn a bit more about the history of the place and see just what the predecessors of the MGM Grand and New York New York looked like. And of course, the signs being so important to draw the tourists in off the Strip, they were fantastic pieces of work.

The Neon Museum

There are great plans for this museum. The planned visitors’ centre will be housed in the La Concha motel lobby, removed in bits from the Strip and reconstituted beside the boneyard itself. It’s a beautiful curved white building and will be stunning and otherworldly when it’s fully restored.

The museum has already restored some of the old neon signs, and you can take a self-guided tour of ten of those in the Fremont Street area. Many of the rest will be restored and mounted along Las Vegas Boulevard, which will be a fantastic sight, and others are probably just too far gone. Even these may turn out to be useful, though, as there’s a plan for an entrance sign made up of lettering from more than one sign.

The museum is a fantastic organisation who have done a great job so far saving neon signs that are no longer viable – lcd and led signs are much cheaper to make and run and can be seen during the day. And they keep the history of Las Vegas alive, in a city which mostly obliterates and builds over its past.

Neon Boneyard signs

Here are some of the stories behind the signs:

Ugly Duckling Car Sales sign, Neon Boneyard, Las Vegas

Ugly Duckling car sales was a franchise that specialised in selling cars to those who would otherwise have difficulties finding finance to do this. The franchise has since closed down, and the company has now changed their name to DriveTime. Hence no more Mr Ducky. I’m not entirely sure in whose view this duckling is ugly, mind you! There’s a view of the sign in situ on this great web page

Laundrette sign, Neon Boneyard, Las Vegas

I haven’t been able to find out anything about the company behind this sign. If anyone has any information, please let me know. As you can see, however, the design of the sign means that in the dark you would have a cute animated shirt waving its arms about!

Binion's Horseshoe sign, Neon Boneyard, Las Vegas

Benny Binion was a convicted murderer and mobster and came to Vegas in 1946. His Horseshoe casino was popular due to the high limits for bets. And he was the first to get rid of the sawdust on the floors and bring in plush carpets and free drinks for patrons.

Lido de Paris neon sign. Neon Boneyard Las Vegas.

The Lido de Paris girls arrived in Vegas in 1958. There’s a great photo of them scoffing hot dogs on this Early Vegas page. According to that site “The Lido Girls set a Las Vegas trend, followed by the Beauties of Japan, Hawaii, the South Pacific, the Mambo Showgirls of Havana and the Carnival Women of Brazil.” The Lido was replaced by a new show, Enter the Night, in 1992.

Sassy Sally sign, Neon Boneyard, Las Vegas

Sassy Sally’s was a strip joint. The sign showing Sassy Sally herself, wife of Vegas Vic (they were actually married by a Vegas minister) is back up in Fremont Street and part of the Neon Museum self guided tour (along with Vegas Vic). (Photos of both of them here.
Sally’s leg no longer kicks up (I’ve read that it never did work, really) and Vic’s arm no longer moves.

Neon Museum details

You must register for their tour – they run twice a day Tuesday to Saturday at the moment. Full information on how to do this can be found on the Neon Museum website

The museum is situated about 20-25 minutes’ walk from Fremont Street. Bear this in mind if you’re planning on walking on a hot day, and think about taking the taxi or car instead. Take plenty of water as you’re out in the open. Until the visitor centre opens, there are no toilets available – but there is a handy public library across the street if you’re desperate!

Tags: , , , , , , ,

J on February 6th, 2012
Dark Valentine Le Manoir

Dark Valentine Night at Le Manoir

Valentine’s Day 2012

The Manoir are holding a very special Valentine’s night experience. Billed “Dark Valentine Night” you’ll tour through the Manoir in total darkness apart from one light, and to mark Valentine’s day you’ll be serenaded by “love songs and rock and roll” and attacked by 20 monsters. Got to be better than an overpriced Valentine’s menu, don’t you think? More on the Manoir below:


Le Manoir, Paris

We queued on a chilly November day at the entrance courtyard of a 1900 originally built by the Boulanger earthenware factory, being entertained by a tall, dark, bloody, growling, slurping, lurching actor and his equally bloody, yowling companion with a broom (that’s her below).

Le Manoir, Paris

I hadn’t noticed this place on English websites, only French, I think because it hasn’t been open for very long and appears to be very much in French. However a quick look at Le Manoir website suggests that you can ask for the tour to be done in English when you’re buying your tickets.

However, gore, horror and people running around making horrible gut wrenching sounds is international, I feel, so you’ll not lose much by taking the French language tour.

This is an immersive, interactive show where you taken as part of a group through the mansion, which has been split into 13 different sections, each representing one of the dark and more macabre legends of old Paris. Our experience was made all the better by being in a group with two young, dramatic “mon dieu” and “maman” whispering and screaming females who, of course, were picked on by the ghouls and ghosties the whole way through (the best ones to get a reaction from, bien sur.)

Sign at entrance to Le Manoir, Paris

Subjects include the Phantom of the Opera (who could’ve done with a bit of deodorant, to be honest), the prisoner in the iron mask, the phantom of Tuileries, the Hunchback of Notre Dame and even the crocodiles in the Parisian sewers. The tales are told by way of decoration, plenty of darkness, noise and actors doing their utmost to get a fright out of you by jumping on you. I’m not the world’s most easily frightened person, but in Monoprix a good quarter of an hour after the end of the experience I was still waiting for a tap on my shoulder  …

Details

Address

Le Manoir de Paris
18 Rue de Paradis 75010
Metro: Poissonniere, Bonne Nouvelle, Gare de l’Est, Gare du Nord

Opening hours

Hours vary – do check Manoir de Paris website before you go.

This experience is not for young children – they recommend that those under 10 years old don’t attend. I would suggest that it’s suitable for children even older than this, though. And those with heart conditions, epilepsy and pregnant women (?) should stay clear.

Tags: , , , , , ,

York watergate

York watergate (from http://www.urban75.org)

Thanks to Boris Johnson and TFL, we were treated to a free walk with London Walks as part of Walk4life yesterday. The walk we chose was Subterranean London, and we were told to meet at 10:30 at Embankment Station.

We arrived at 10:15 to an enormous crowd, a fair proportion taking advantage of the free offer, I would guess. Luckily, London Walks had prepared for this and there were four guides, each taking their own group separately. There were by the end of our walk 95 in our group, but as Adam, our guide, is an expert at projecting his lovely Scottish voice, this turned out not to be a problem.

One thing that stuck in my mind from the walk was York Watergate. To see it, leave Embankment Station by the Villiers Street exit, and enter Victoria Embankment Gardens on your right. What you’re looking for is the Italianate arch – it won’t be hard to find!

The construction of the Thames embankments was an immense engineering project, designed to reclaim land from the river. As a result, there are “footprints” as our guide called them, of what has gone before. The Watergate, now around 150 yards from the water, originally had steps that led down to it. It was built in 1626 and was the exit from nearby York House (since replaced by at least three different developments – such is London). The house was first owned by George Villiers, first Duke of Buckingham. The arch was designed perhaps by Inigo Jones, perhaps by Sir Balthazar Gerbier.

Below is the painting “York Watergate and the Adelphi from the River by Moonlight” by Henry Pether, which is owned by the Museum of London. As you can see, there is a line of mansions along this north bank of the Thames – York House was just one of them. It gives a heavily romanticised view but also some idea of what the scene would have looked like. Long may the Watergate live, even if everything else around it changes!

York Watergate by Moonlight

York Water Gate and the Adelphi from the River by Moonlight (http://www.andrew-havis.co.uk)

Tags: , ,

J on January 23rd, 2012
Wroclaw town hall

Wroclaw town hall (source Wikipedia)

I saw an ad on the London Underground yesterday about Wroclaw, Capital of Culture 2016 (also known as City of Culture). Wroclaw? I’m ashamed to say I’d never heard of this city before, so I thought I’d do a bit of research on a town which is following in the illustrious footsteps of Stockholm, Athens and Prague

Wroclaw in southwest Poland was the ancient capital of Silesia (there are parts of Silesia in Germany and the Czech republic although most of it is situated in Poland) and has in its time been Bohemian, Prussian, Austrian and German – not an uncommon story in this part of the world.

It’s Poland’s fourth largest city with a population of around 630,000 and is the largest town on the banks of the River Oder which runs from the Czech republic and forms part of the border between Poland and Germany.

Wroclaw market square

Rynek Market Square Wroclaw

Things to see in Wroclaw

This is a beautiful old city, lying alongside the magnificent Oder (Odra is it’s it Germanic name) river. It boasts over 100 bridges and 12 islands and some call it Venice of the North. The colourful market square is large and busy with lots of little streets branching off.

The cathedral of St John the Baptist can be climbed to view the oldest part of Wroclaw, Ostrow Tumski which dates from 10th century. The town hall is especially interesting and over the top – see the photo at the top of this post.

Things to do in Wroclaw

Wroclaw is a city of music festivals, including the biggest one, the Wratislavia Cantans. Opera and jazz festivals as well as an American film festival are also held in the city. Wroclaw-life.com has a list of 36 cultural things to do, including the National Musem and the Fine Art Academy Museum.

Have a look at the lovely list of things to do in Wroclaw on Poland’s tourism website.

Wroclaw dwarf

Wroclaw gnome (source wroclaw-life.com)

The best thing of all, from Quirky Travel’s point of view, are the Wroclaw gnomes. The origins of these little bronze creatures come from the Orange Alternative Movement in the 80′s who drew gnomes as a protest in areas where communist police had erased anti-communist propaganda. There are said to be at least 15 of of the little bronze creatures around the city.

Hotels in Wroclaw

Art Hotel Wroclaw

Art Hotel

Art Hotel

The Art Hotel consists of two connected tenement houses in Wroclaw’s main square. Breakfasts are said to be great, and the interiors look plush. An example price is £138 per room per night in May 2012.

Academus Apartments

Also centrally located just off Rynek square, these are spacious apartments with kitchen facilities and free wi-fi. And the pub downstairs (according to the Academus) sells “the best beer in Poland.”

Pubs and restaurants in Wroclaw

Spiz

A microbrewery which does pub food as well as more restaurant quality food, this place is situated in a cellar on Rynek (number 9). Try the sausage, sauerkraut or soup in a bowl and a honey-infused beer.

Bernard Piwiarnia

Bernard Piwiarnia restaurant and pub

Bernard Piwiarnia Restauracja

A large pub/restaurant spread over three floors and to be found at 35 Rynek Square, this place is often busy and could easily be a tourist trap but does not appear to be be so. It serves proper Eastern European food including dumplings, pork knuckle and pasta and has live music at the weekends. Good beer also served.

How to get to Wroclaw

Skyscanner has a list of airlines who fly to Wroclaw. The list includes Ryanair and Wizzair.

Tags: , , , ,

J on January 18th, 2012

Grafitti on the Parkland Walk

I was expecting the four mile Parkland Walk to be little known and tranquil. This wasn’t the case on a beautiful Sunday afternoon, unfortunately, though I’ll pretend to be magnanimous about it and say that it’s great to see it being well used by the citizens of North London. By cyclists especially…

The walk runs along an old railway line – the Great Northern Railway Branch line – from Finsbury Park to Alexandra Park, with entrances and exits along the way. The line was closed in 1971 with the extension of the Northern Line past Highgate.

Tree growing out of wall

We entered the walk at Finsbury Park – walk north from the underground/rail station through the park itself, keeping left, and you’ll see signs to the Capital Ring – follow these out the of park. Part of the Capital Ring follows this walk. Although the line runs through the hilly parts of London, this really isn’t a strenous walk, although it’s not entirely suitable for people with mobility problems. The friends of the Parkland Walk, however, do their best to keep it well maintained and clear of litter (by both trying to convince the local authorities to do this, and by getting stuck in and doing it themselves.)

Old train platforms

We carried on through the green corridor, past where Crouch End station would have been with old train platforms that can still be walked along. Unfortunately we didn’t see any muntjacs (small deer) which apparently have been seen on the walk. The multitudes of butterflies and bees weren’t in evidence either, but this was the beginning of January in an effort to walk off 10 calories worth of Christmas dinner.

Parkland Walk graffiti

One of the great things about this walk is the graffiti. Although not always welcome, the bridges and walks along here are dressed particularly well in multi-coloured street art and is welcome on a January day when there is a distinct lack of any colour other than green. (We’ll be visiting again in the summer.)

When Muswell Hill is reached, near the end of the walk, lovely views are to be had of the City of London while walking across a viaduct. We exited near Alexandra Park and that was us, nearly home and wondering why they hadn’t introduced trams along the line (one of the plans mooted for it in the 80s). Of course it’s always a better plan to have green space in the city, and the walk is a lovely one for a day out with the kids or the dog.

More details on the Parkland Walk

Friends of The Parkland Walk for a map with access points, and information on its history and wildlife.

Haringey Council’s page on the walk

Related posts: Highgate Cemetery London Underground Ghost Stations

Tags: , , , ,